Wednesday, June 25, 2014

How to Choose a Competent Mold Inspector

Mold inspectors are not regulated in California. 

As a result of a lack of regulation, the majority of mold inspectors are not properly certified, trained or experienced to provide adequate indoor air quality services that they are selling. Most of these inspectors have completed a one day class, and say they are certified based on a class attendance certificate; these are not professionally recognized certifications. These inspectors are not their for you, but for the money.

THE CONSUMER MUST BEWARE.

As a nationally recognized expert in property and mold investigations, I have reviewed several mold inspection reports from other inspectors  that lack current industry standards. Many of these inspectors have been referred by real estate agents, who are not aware of recommended certifications and experience required to choose a competent mold inspector. 

Here are Ten Important Questions to Help You Choose Your Potential Mold Inspector


1. What does your mold inspection cover?
The mold inspector should ensure that their inspection and written report will meet all applicable standards of a mold inspection: This typically includes a visual inspection of all accessible areas, moisture meter testing, and relative humidity measurements. It may or may not include a scope of work to explain how to stop the mold and remove the mold safely. In addition, your inspector should also be experienced in other indoor air quality issues that may be a potential health problems: e.g Radon, allergens, VOC's, lead and asbestos. You should be able to request and see a copy of a sample report ahead of time and ask any questions you may have. If there are any areas you want to make sure are inspected, be sure to identify them upfront. For a sample report visit my website at: SAMPLE MOLD REPORT

Current state of the art mold testing should be available for your consideration; such as DNA analysis of the property condition e.g. Environmental Relative Mold Index (ERMI), that has been in field practice for more than 5 years, but still under the category of research by the EPA. Recent research has determined that mold inspectors miss 50% of mold problems without the ERMI test. For more information on the ERMI test process visit a description at my website: ERMI

2. How long have you been practicing in the mold inspection profession and how many inspections have you completed?
The inspector should be able to provide his or her history in the profession and perhaps even a few names as referrals. Be careful, most "mold inspectors" have had no more than a one day training.

3. Are you specifically experienced in residential and or commecial inspection?
Related experience in property inspection and certification by ASHI or CREIA is a must. Accept no substitutes or excuses. To confirm ASHI or CREIA inspection certification visit: www.ashi.org or www.creia.org.

4. Do you offer to do repairs or remediation based on the inspection?
This is consider a code of ethics violation to offer both inspection and remediation. Your inspector should only inspect, that way there is no incentive to find a problem. If you want a referral from the inspector for a remediation company to remove the mold, make sure there is no formal business relationship or kick back.

5. How long will the inspection take?
The average on-site inspection time for a single inspector is one to three hours for a typical single-family house; anything significantly less may not be enough time to perform a thorough inspection.

6. How much will it cost?
Costs vary dramatically, depending on the region, size and age of the project site, scope of services and other factors. Consider the value of the inspection in terms of the investment being made and or health concerns. Cost does not necessarily reflect quality.

7. What type of inspection report do you provide and how long will it take to receive the report?
Ask to see samples and determine whether or not you can understand the inspector's reporting style and if the time parameters fulfill your needs. Most inspectors provide their full report within 24 hours of the inspection or lab sample results. SAMPLE MOLD REPORT

8. Will I be able to attend the inspection?
This is a valuable educational opportunity, and an inspector's refusal to allow this should raise a red flag. Never pass up this opportunity to see indoor air quality issues through the eyes of an expert.

9. Do you maintain membership in a professional home inspector association?
There are many bogus "certifications" for mold inspectors. The only nationally recognized true certification group is ACAC; visit www.acac.org to verify that your inspector is a Certified Microbial Consultant (CMC). My experience indicates that most mold inspectors are poorly trained and under qualified for the work they are offering; buyer beware; there is no California license or over site of inspectors or remediates.

10. Do you participate in continuing education programs to keep your expertise up to date?
One can never know it all, and the inspector's commitment to continuing education is a good measure of his or her professionalism and service to the consumer. This is especially important in cases that involve health concerns. For example the ACAC certification requires at least 40 hours of approved education every 24 months.

Wednesday, June 4, 2014

HOW TO PICK YOUR HOME INSPECTOR


CALIFORNIA DOES NOT HAVE licensing requirements for home inspection companies, so they can vary in terms of training, certification, experience, integrity and quality. Your real estate agent may have suggestions for inspectors, but it's a good idea to also vet them yourself. Check out the American Society of Home Inspectors website (ashi.org) to find a member inspector in your area. Meanwhile, here's a look at the important questions to ask before hiring one.  
1. Do you perform repairs or just home inspections? Some homebuyers seek the advice of a general contractor rather than a home inspector. That's a mistake, as they provide expertise from a different point of view. A home inspector is typically checking the roof or the appliances if they're included in the home, A general contractor is coming in from a repair standpoint and can quote for whatever repairs need to be done. In fact, providing both services could create a conflict of interest, because buyers can't always distinguish between necessary repairs and optional upgrades.  IT IS ALSO AGAINST THE LAW IN CALIFORNIA FOR THE PERSON DOING THE INSPECTION TO DUE ANY REPAIRS ON THE HOME.
After the home inspection, you may want to hire a specialist or general contractor to find out how much a kitchen renovation or plumbing upgrade might cost. Get the unbiased opinion first. "Then you bring in the contractor to quote for what those repairs are." 
2. Are you insured? A surprising number of home inspectors don't have insurance. They should have errors and omissions insurance in case there is something significant that they miss," he says. 
3. Can you provide references? It's a good idea to check the inspection company's references, Ask previous clients about whether the inspector arrived on time and inspected all aspects of the house, including the roof and attic. 
4. Can I tag along on the inspection? Some home buyers leave the inspectors alone to examine the home, while others want to be more hands-on and follow along as the inspector works. If you fall into the latter camp, which several experts recommended, make sure your inspector is willing to walk you through the process. 
5. What does the inspection include? To compare inspectors, you need to know what the inspection includes (or doesn't include). Ideally, the inspection should be as thorough as possible. 
6. Will you send me a sample inspection report? The inspector should send you a detailed report after completing the inspection. 
7. Do you have any special expertise? If you're buying a special type of property, such as a historic home or new construction, make sure the inspector understands the special considerations for those types of properties. 
8. How much do you charge? Notice that price is the last question mentioned. That's because shopping on price alone may lead to cutting corners. You might be saving a couple of hundred dollars to hire the cheapest inspector, but you could be paying in a big way because the inspector wasn't thorough.

Tuesday, May 20, 2014

Air Cleaners for Your Home.

The air inside your home is often more polluted than the air outside. Sometimes it’s even dirtier than the air near highways or industrial plants. You may think that an air cleaner (or “air purifier”) is the solution, especially if you have allergies or asthma. Manufacturers of such products want you to think so, too. 

Machines vs. pollutants

There are two general categories of indoor air pollutants. Particulate matter consists of microscopic particles suspended in the air, such as dust, pollen, animal dander, dust mites andmolds. Then there are gaseous pollutants, produced by paints, varnishes, cleaning products, gas and wood stoves, and new carpets, for example. Some pollutants— like tobacco smoke—have both particulate and gaseous components.
A good air cleaner should be able to remove dust and smoke particles, as well as some animal dander, pollen and molds. But no home device, no matter how sophisticated or expensive, can remove all pollutants. For one thing, many large particles (such as from dust mites and pollen) settle on surfaces and don’t get filtered. Some air cleaners contain activated charcoal or other materials that remove gaseous pollutants, but they eliminate only a limited number of them, plus they cost a lot and the filters have to be replaced frequently. Air cleaners that use ultraviolet (UV) light to “kill germs” may not be so effective, either—most don’t provide sufficient UV exposure, and some bacterial and mold spores are UV-resistant.

Air cleaners for your health?

If you’re hoping that an air cleaner will prevent allergy or asthma attacks, you may be disappointed. Though some research has found small improvements in asthma symptoms among people allergic to pets, for instance, studies have been mixed and, overall, unimpressive. According to the EPA, the devices may help reduce levels of some small airborne allergens, but that doesn’t mean they will necessarily reduce respiratory symptoms, especially in people who are most sensitive. A better bet is to prevent indoor air pollution in the first place and take other steps to deal with allergies.
Nevertheless, if you or someone in your home has allergies or respiratory disease, a good air cleaner may be worth the cost if it achieves even a small improvement.

Two basic ways of cleaning the air

  • Mechanical cleaners draw air through a filter to capture particles. HEPA (high-efficiency particulate air) filters remove dust particles and potential allergens best, trapping 99.97 percent of all particles 0.3 microns in diameter or larger. Viruses, many bacteria and other smaller particles can pass through, however.
  • Electronic air cleaners include electrostatic precipitators (which charge the airborne particles so they stick to a metal plate) and ionizers (which cause particles to be deposited on nearby surfaces). Ionizers can soil walls, curtains and furniture, and the particles can become re-suspended when disturbed. What’s more, all electronic models can generate ozone as a byproduct, and some air cleaners do so intentionally (called “ozone generators”), claiming that ozone effectively removes odor-causing chemicals and microorganisms (not true at the amounts of ozone generated). Ozone itself can irritate the lungs and worsen respiratory problems. It can also combine with other household pollutants to form dangerous reaction products, like formaldehyde. Some air cleaners are hybrids of the two technologies, and some additionally have UV features or special filters to remove some gaseous pollutants, as mentioned above.

. . . and two basic types of effective air cleaning systems

  • Central filtration. A professionally installed system is best if your home has forced-air heating and cooling systems, but it’s also most expensive (over $1,000). A less expensive—but less efficient—alternative is to replace your regular furnace filter with medium- or high-efficiency filters.
  • Room air cleaners. You can buy portable electronic models or ones with mechanical filters ($50 to $300 or more)— or units that combine the various technologies. Machines with fans are generally much more effective, but can be noisy.

Verify before buying

The verification seal from the Association of Home Appliance Manufacturers(AHAM) means that a room air cleaner meets standards for removing tobacco smoke, dust and pollen, based on a measure called the clean air delivery rate (CADR). According to the EPA, many AHAM-certified air cleaners do well with small particles, but most don’t have high enough CADR to effectively remove large particles such as pollen and dust mites in most rooms. And they won’t remove all of the compounds in tobacco smoke.

Words to the wise

Air cleaners may be useful in some circumstances, though they don’t ensure good air quality. Which one is best depends primarily on the pollutants you want to remove. Consider also the size of your room, costs, ease of maintenance and noise levels. We generally recommend mechanical air cleaners with high-efficiency filters over electronic ones. In particular, avoid ozone-generators; they are often described using code words for ozone such as “activated oxygen,” “superoxygen” or “mountain fresh air.” The EPA offers in-depth information on home air cleaners. Another resource isConsumer Reports.

Monday, May 19, 2014

We are in a Drought State of Emergency

We are in a Drought State of Emergency
2013 closed as the driest year in recorded history for many areas of California, and the severe drought is continuing this year. On January 17, Gov. Edmund G. Brown Jr. declared a "drought state of emergency" and directed state officials to take all necessary actions in response. On April 25, Governor Brown asked all Californians to redouble their efforts to conserve water and to get water to farmers more quickly, ensure that people have safe drinking water, protect vulnerable wildlife species and prepare for an extreme fire season (something we are now witnessing).
Though we cannot revert the detrimental effects caused by this major drought, we can play our part in conservation. Governor Brown encouraged all California citizens to cut back their household water-use to 20%. Some ways that you can do this: 

 Visit saveourh20.org for water-saving tips!

Wednesday, May 14, 2014

Thermostat Recall a Fire Hazard


White-Rodgers, a major thermostat provider, hasrecalled over 1 million thermostats in the United States and Canada due to a fire hazard caused by alkaline batteries leaking onto the thermostat’s circuit board. 

 

Which Thermostats are Subject to Recall? 

The digital thermostats are white with blue lighted screens and will have one of the following names printed on the front:
The thermostats have a battery door on the top, left-hand corner. There are three or four buttons to the right and three or four more buttons below the thermostat screen. 
 

Recalled thermostats do not show a battery icon on the left side of the blue lighted screen.
 

 
Only thermostats without a battery icon
are subject to recall.

What Should You Do?

If you own one of these brands, check your thermostat for the battery icon on the left-hand side of the blue lighted screen. If the battery icon is not shown,contact White-Rodgers to receive a free repair or a replacement thermostat.

Consumer Contact:

Call White-Rodgers toll-free at (888) 624-1901 from
7 a.m. to 6 p.m. CT Monday through Friday—or visit their website at www.white-rodgers.com and click on theWhite-Rodgers 1F8x-04xx Thermostat Recall link found at the lower, left-hand corner of the homepage for more information.

Click here to access the full report from the United States Consumer Product Safety Commission.

Friday, May 9, 2014

Granite Counter Tops and Radon Gas Danger

Radon released from granite counter tops?

1. Assuming a relatively tight house with an air change rate of 0.5/hr and using average measured dose rates from granite countertop slabs, the estimated radon concentration in kitchen air would be 0.13 pCi/L. This concentration is less than one-eighth the average radon gas concentration in U.S. homes and is well below the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) guideline of 4 pCi/L.

2.  Granite is a natural mineral formed by the earth's geological processes. It is quarried and processed to produce commercial products such as counter tops. It is possible for any granite sample to contain varying concentrations of uranium that can produce radon gas, a source of alpha and beta particles and gamma rays. Some granite used for counter tops may contribute variably to indoor radon levels. At this time, however, EPA does not believe sufficient data exist to conclude that the types of granite commonly used in counter tops are significantly increasing indoor radon levels. Some granite may emit gamma radiation above typical background levels. While radiation levels are not typically high, measurement from different granite types may reveal higher than expected levels on a case-by-case basis.

3. EPA believes the principal source of radon in homes is soil gas that is drawn indoors through a natural suction process. To reduce radon risk you should first test the air in your home to determine the radon level.


4. If you are concerned about the possibility of your counter tops adding to or causing increased radon in your home, you can have your home tested by a certified tester or you can test it yourself by using do-it-yourself (DIY) radon test kits.
A list of California certified radon testers can be found by clicking on the Testers (PDF) link at the following webpage:
http://www.cdph.ca.gov/HealthInfo/environhealth/Pages/RadonServiceProviders.aspx

To test for radon from your granite counter tops yourself, purchase three radon test kits and follow the DIY Instructions for Testing Granite Counter Tops described below.
Inexpensive DIY radon test kits can be obtained by calling the toll-free number 800-324- 5928. After calling the toll-free number, press 1 and follow the instructions to purchase a California radon test kit. The cost for the radon test kit is $7.95. Alternatively, a California radon test kit can be obtained by submitting a request, along with credit card payment, at www.drhomeair.com beginning on the following webpage:
https://secure.flipmedia.com/apalab_secure/drha_order_carw5.html
Disable all pop-up blockers on your computer prior to entering data on the order form.
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DIY Instructions for Testing Granite Counter Tops
Set one test kit approximately three feet from the counter but not directly on the counter; set one test kit at the boundary of the kitchen and the adjoining room, and set one test kit in a room farthest from the kitchen (preferably not a bathroom). Record the serial numbers of each test kit and the locations so you know where each of the test results came from.
The results of these three tests will indicate whether radon is higher in the vicinity of the granite counter tops as compared to the remainder of your home.
EPA’s recommended action level is 4 picocuries (pCi/L). If your house has 4 pCi/L or higher, EPA recommends that you take action to reduce the level of radon.
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Wednesday, April 30, 2014

20% of Homeowners Wish They'd Had a Better Inspection.

One in five homeowners said they wish they’d inspected the home more carefully before moving in— a according to a survey by Trulia.

In order to compete with other bidders, many homeowners are signing contracts and moving in without getting a professional home inspection. Or hiring the cheapest home inspector, rather than one certified by ASHI.
In competitive markets like  it’s not rare to just forego a home inspection or say you won’t ask for any repairs. People that are doing that and purchasing properties that they could possibly have to dump tens of thousands of dollars into later.
This is the kind of mistake that Trulia real estate expert Michael Corbett says is a “disaster waiting to happen.”
“I would never waive an inspection,” he says. “I would pass on the house before I’d waive on an inspection, mainly because I may get to a house and realize [too late] that there are issues.”